Советы по выбору цифрового фотоаппарата

bykon:

Dmitry11111, Fujifilm f30, f31, f40. Canon A630 Samsung S850

Сенкс, я по правде на фуджи 5700/5800 нацеливался.

До сей поры брал у товарища 7000-ый, он год был за границей. Аппарат очень понравился. Но так как основные интересы немного другие (кино и кинотехника), то нужен недорогой фотоаппарат для макро съемки.

За 240, учитывая габариты и массу, по соотношению цена/качество похоже альтернатив и нет, да и на

dpreview.com вразумительные отзывы.......

фото здесь http://www.pbase.com/timberwolfpuppy

а насчет видео - хвалят "малюха", да и разрешение 848 x 480 (UHQ Wide)............

Have you heard of using bounce flash? Investigate this. If so, you can use most any camera that can be affixed to a camera bracket and has a hot shoe or PC connection.

If not, then you should consider what makes quality in ISO cameras. It's the sensor, baby. When the pixels of the sensor get to be BIG, such as 7-8 microns in diameter, you will then get great high ISO performance. Mostly little point and shoot cameras have sensor pixels which are around 1.5-3 microns in diameter.

The NIKON D3 $5,000, Canon 5D $2,000 body only, Nikon D40 $300, have large pixel sensors. The Nikon D40 has only 6 megapixels, but this allows it to use large pixels on its sensor; I think it is 7.9 microns.

The Sigma SD9 has 9 micron pixels, but they limited the camera to ISO 400.

So, what you need is a APS or DX sensor which is smaller than full frame (too expensive at $5,000) and has large pixels. You can identify these cameras by the fact that they have fewer megapixels on the sensor, like around 6 megapixels instead of 10 megapixels. Choose a camera that has fewer megapixels and it is very likely you are choosing a camera that has large micron sized sensor pixels.

When you choose a camera with 10 megapixels, it will have smaller sized sensor pixels, unless it is a full frame camera like a Nikon D3.

So, I think you should go for a Nikon D40, given that I know nothing of the Pentax.

In point and shoot cameras, those which can be placed in your pocket, get a Casio EX-Z1080. This has a large sensor, but 10 megapixels. It should not perform as well as a Nikon D40 for high ISO, but it is the best choice in pocket cameras and they are being sold at reduced prices at Egghead .com and other places for $160.

It has "softflash" which will increase your high ISO performance some. This is a fill flash. For examples of how this camera performs under low light and interior light, go through my gallery of about 300 photos on San Francisco here:

click

http://www.pbase.com/timberwolfpuppy

So, you can use fill flash on a bracket, or you can go large sensor pixel camera, or you can use "softflash" on the Casio EX-Z1080. The examples of softflash I have in my website are taken under very low light conditions wherein I was using ISO 3200 in a dark saloon, and the subjects were moving. I don't expect that you will be taking pictures under these rough conditions.

But let me say this, the Casio doesn't have a shutter to bounce. It is "rangefinder", a "live view" camera. The fact that there is no shutter to bounce gives it one more f stop of speed for sharpness. And I get sharp pictures handheld at 1/60th that require 1/125th on a SLR.

So, now you know. The other factors of sharpness are laid in front of you. It isn't just "image stabilization" features. There is more to it. Go look at my site.

...Timber...

You should get the Casio Z1080. Reason: resellability and more.

The Z1200's claim to fame compared to the Z1080 are 2 more mp and its manual mode. The 12 mp will not be used by you often if you print to LCD screen. You will likely be using 2, 3 mp mostly if this is what you do. So, the Z1200 offers no distinct advantage over the Z1080 for you.

As for manual mode, let me give you some understanding of how the Z1080 "has" a manual mode. Firstly, in most average situations like shade and daylight, you don't need to rely upon Best Shot mode. You just dial in your ISO, take a reading, and it gives you the resultant shutter speed. Don't like that speed? Easy, just choose another ISO until you get the speed you want.

Best Shot scenes don't lock you into a lack of choice. You can still change ISO once you are in a Best Shot mode; and this changes the speed, too. So, what is left? The F stop. Guess what, these little cameras only have 1 f stop which is f2.8. Depth of field doesn't change if you were to obtain a f8 reading from the camera. It doesn't have a hardware f8, the f8 is a result of a neutral density filter and another factor. Having a manual mode on a 35mm camera allows you to change f stop, speed, ISO. Fine. On these little point and shoots, you are really only changing speed, ISO and the f stop is adjusted using other means.

So, the "Best Shot" scenes are really only starting points. You then change change EV, ISO to do what a manual mode camera will do. With 7 ISO's, you can change speeds all over the place.

If you really want to force the camera to start out with a low shutter speed, then you simply memorize what scenes start out with a low shutter speed: "flowing water" is the one I know of. Another is "fireworks" and this starts out with a 2 second shutter reading. So, you can change ISO to get another shutter speed if you like. Remember, there is no need of "increasing depth of field" because there is no hardware aperature changing device, no leafs. And the camera gets fantastic depth of field because it has a 8 mm lens.

As for video, you don't need, remember this, someday you might. And if you re-sell the camera, the buyer will like a good video.

Given that the Z1080 has the big sensor, it just makes this model all that more desireable to the next owner of your camera.

In practice, manual mode is no advantage over what the Z1080 uses. If you don't use Best Shot mode, you have a wide range of ISOs and resultant speeds to chose from. I only use Best Shot mode when I need to do a time exposure. And I can't imagine how you would accomplish a flash fill situation without auto exposure help from something like Best Shot mode. Sure, I do flash fill with my 2 1/4 cameras all the time. And I do it manually. But I have experience and lots of flash power to give me f11's from 20 feet away. With a tiny flash unit mounted on the camera, you need the camera to attend to limiting the flash in concert with the auto exposure of the camera. My fill flash exposures with the Z1080 are perfect. And what is more incredible is that the Casio 1080 will do it with ISO 3200! Wow! I can't do this with my powerful flash units because, well, they are too powerful! Here is an example of "soft flash" flash fill with the Casio. You notice I did not change the color temperature of the interior lighting. I could have, but I wanted a "dark feeling" to the bar, yet I added flash for fun. Here is ONE examaple from my gallery showing flash fill:

http://www.pbase.com/timberwolfpuppy/image/96512120

Look at the other pictures in my pbase gallery. There are more than 200 pictures there all taken with my Casio Z1080. I vaguely remember that only one picture used "Best Shot" scene mode. And that was a nighttime picture of the street in front of the St. Francis Hotel. It was a handheld shot at about 1/2 second. Again, I did not use post processing, photoshop or anything to change the more than 200 photos in my gallery, portfolio at pbase. They just popped out of the camera without further help, not even darkening or lightening!

So, if I can do this, how is it you need "manual mode" with the Z1080? Here is my main gallery link of more than 200 photos:

http://pbase.com/timberwolfpuppy

Give the Casio credit! It did that!

...Timber...

I am ...Timber...

I will give you my professional opinion. I have photographed weddings for more than 30 years for example.

I think you should go for a Casio Z1080 instead. Why?

This is why:

If you truly need wide angle, you would be better off with a 21mm or 24mm (35mm equivalent). But you want to save some money probably, and so I recommend you simply use the "stitch" software to combine two photographs. And when you take these two or three photographs, you should take them at, oh, 40mm (equivalent 35mm) so that you do not warp the picture much. It would even be better to taken them at 50mm (35mm equivalent) for less distortion in the final product.

I know, you are thinking that it would be great to have 28mm (equivalent) for parties. You wouldn't have to back up so much when you take the picture. Well, did you know that these wide angle settings distort people's noses and make them grow? Did you know that their belly will grow and their feet will shrink. Sure, the situation is not extreme, but it is there. And women will not thank you for distorting them in your pictures. This use of 28mm at parties and weddings is a real valid complaint from clients of newbie photographers who "don't want to back up so much". I say: put the client first and use 50mm setting so that you won't distort their body and face so much! Of course, longer is better, 65mm is even better. So, if you want quality on people, you don't use 28mm on them. You back up and use 35mm or 50mm or 75mm or 85mm. At 100mm you are beginning to distort them again in another way. You are flattening their features. The ideal is about 85mm. But for wedding photographers and party photographers, 35mm works well if you include 2 people in the framing, not just one. This makes you back up more, and this causes less distortion. It isn't just the mm, it's the distance you take the picture of the people at you see. And 85mm will force you to be at the proper distance from one person. 50mm will force you to be at the proper distance for two people...etc.

Are you will with me?

So, get out of the thought that 28mm just gives you MORE. It could just give you more distortion on people. For landscapes, you can always use stitch software. And I find that landscapes and cityscapes really need more than a 28mm view.

Another reason that z1080 is better: The sensor is larger sized. it is a 1/1.7 sensor where as the Casio Ex-z100 is smaller. You will get more quality from the larger sensor. Perhaps the quality will be the same as a Canon G9 which has the larger sensor, too. Few of the point and shoots have the larger sensor. But the Casio z1080 has it.

Also, for video, the Casio Ex-z1080 has wide mode video at 30 fps. The Casio z1200 does its video at 20 fps, which makes it jerky. But the z1200 does share the same large sensor as the z1080. So, I purchased the Casio EX-z1080 instead. I didn't want jerky video.

This gave me 10 megapixels from a large sensor point and shoot. And it has 30 fps video in wide mode 848x480 video. The casio site says so. You might find other sites saying 25 fps, but Casio shows 30 fps on their site.

So, the nice thing is that WITHOUT A 28MM setting, I can hardly ever distort a human face, unless I do something irrational and get so close to the person that I distort their face by getting too close. A 5-6 foot distance is good. I haven't actually measured this with a ruler, but that is what it seems like. If you are this distance from the person, no matter what the mm setting of your lens, you will get a natural view of their face without noses and chins growing and distorting.

(If you can afford it, consider getting the new DP-1 by Sigma. It has 28mm in a fixed lens. Why do I like fixed lens? Because I believe that a slight knock will put the lens out of alignment on a point and shoot which has a retractable lens. But the Sigma DP-1 lens is fixed and frozen in place. Sure, it is much more expensive, about $1000 list. But the price will go down to half of its present price in about 14 months. And even lower thereafter. And its sensor is 5 times larger than the point and shoots. So, when it crops using digital telephoto, it simply crops this large aps sensor down to a point and shoot sensor size, and it still will get great quality. Look up the Sigma forum and see the rating on the Sigma SD-14 camera for image quality. It uses the same sensor as the DP-1 camera.)

Are you still with me? Go for the larger sensor. Go for the 848x480 30 fps video.

And if you need a 8gb sdhc card to contain the larger files, look up Adorama right now, they are selling Sandisk Extreme iii 8gb for a giveaway price on rebate, $39.95.

The LCD works well. It is very bright in sunlight. And this is more important than how many pixtels it has. Sure, a cost was cut and a 118,000 pixtel lcd was used in this camera with a big sensor. So, if you want a camera with a big sensor, you go buy a Canon G9 for $450. Here, you are paying about $205 for the same image quality that a big sensor can make for you. Do you really need to see extreme detail in the LCD when you have a system that auto focuses for you; and does it with facial recognition, several points auto focus, and also has extreme depth of field created by a 8mm lens? I know you don't. And if you want to see the subject in full detail, well, why not just look at them with your eyes and not look through the LCD? The LCD is for framing, and it has good detail; its bright and large enough at 2.6".

If you want a manual focus camera then you try the Z1200, or go to a SLR. The Z1080 has excellent image quality rivaling 2 1/4 cameras of days past.

As for image stabilization to counter camera shake, well, you don't need it at 1/125th of a second, and I doubt at 1/60th too. When you get to 1/4 or 1/8th of a second, then you have a case for image stabilization. I have a solution: a tripod. And what subjects do you take at 1/4 second anyway? Well, these are candelight types of pictures. And you would be using ISO 100 at 1/8th second or so. So, I have a solution, just use ISO 800 and you don't need image stabilization. because you would be taking your picture at 1/60th. So, you see, image stabilization, the hardware kind seen in the Casio Z200 has few practical uses. Most of your pictures will never need or use hardware ccd stabilization or ccd shift or whatever you would like to call it. And image stabilization won't help you if you take a 4 second exposure, for example. You will need a tripod.

So, go for the camera with the larger sensor, the Casio Z1080. You'll get nicer high iso, low light pictures with the larger sensor. And you have more real estate, a larger sensor, to manipulate in photoshop in how many ways you would like to do.

Look, that larger sensor will give you more detail. And if you crop it, you will still have more detail and less "grain" than the Z200. And if you use telephoto, digital telephoto that is, the results will be nicer and less grainey with the Z1080 compared to all the other cameras with the smaller sensors.

As for comparing image quality, realize that many people on this site do not know how to illuminate subject matter properly. They get themselves and their picture taking into troubled waters. The camera doesn't do EVERYTHING for you! It doesn't do hair and makeup either! So, take the comments of image quality with the knowledge that the person writing the piece might be an amateur with 4 weeks of experience and this is their first camera in their life.

...Timber...

В продолжении по Casio - z1080 не сильно уступает новым анонсируемым моделям z150,z250,z300, которые скоро появятся на прилавках в совсем другом начальном ценовом диапазоне......... http://www.dpreview.com/ - см. информацию выше, минуя кияйцев

....

все-ж от производителя...

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/compare_post.asp?method=sidebysid ... 0&show=all

Nikon Coolpix 51 ( http://catalog.onliner.by/nikon/cools51/ )подскажите стоит его покупать??? Или посоветуйте за те же деньги другой аппарат (Компакт-камеру)! (370 уе)

и карта памяти каким объемом идет в комплекте?

Заранее спасибо!

yurik2, мой совет брать никон 5100 гораздо солиднее фотик. Некоторые 5100 называют зеркалкой кст.

Masterboy2, вам в другой ветке отписал, что советую брать не s51 а лучше s51c - карта макс 32мега. В любом случае надо покупать еще.

ikel, сонька альфа 200 будет хорошим вариантом. Я бы для начала взял бы никон д40. Т.к он не сложный, отлично сбалансирован по цене ну и + всегда можно продать его со временем и взять что-то по серьезнее. Мой выбор Nikon d40!

Если есть конкретные вопросы, пишите в ЛС

Masterboy2, http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/compare_post.asp?method=sidebysid ... 8&show=all

z1080 лучшая

+ большая матрица 1/1.75 " против 1/2.5 "

+ F2.8 против F3.3

+ видео 848 x 480 против 640 x 480

+ 165 g при сопоставимых размерах 91 x 57 x 24 mm против 175 g (93 x 59 x 21 mm)

+ цена 240 http://www.bms.lt/en/catalog/view/?id=33078, при бюджете 350 останется на дополнительную карту памяти SanDisk 8GB SDHC Extreme III Card http://www.pictureline.com/products/15066/SanDisk_8GB_SDHC_Extreme_III_Card/ или просто останется........

- экран 2.6 " 115,000 против 3.0 " 230,000 (видно и видно.....)

pronto, на 8-ем баксов? Смысл!?

Я так пологаю что 570 сняли с производства, причем давно. 590 - это камера этого года.

headkill-007, возможно твой вариант и является оптимальным для заданных условий......

Что-то из этого http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/compare_post.asp?method=sidebysid ... 0&show=all

много денег палить не стоит , тогда однозначно лучше зеркалку D40 (80) + 18-250

v0r,

pronto, на 8-ем баксов?

положим на 8%, 206-570, 222-590.......... price.ua

дело в другом,зачем переплачивать даже 1$

Я так пологаю

headkill-007, все же я бы брал 590.

pronto, увожаемый. Довайте мы с Вам все же не будем спорить

Вашк точку зрения я понял. Но все же считаю мой вариант более удачным!

P.S мы с Вами в Минске живем!