MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar
Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi “Year of the Monkey”
This Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi “Year of the Monkey” is a special but not limited edition – however, considering the technique used for the dial, the production numbers will be low. Price: to be confirmed / approximately 22.000 Euros.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 Tourbillon
The specificity of this edition of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 Tourbillon is to feature a textured dial. At first, you’ll only notice a plain white disc. However, the dial is made of polished white jade that reveals some nice inclusions in certain angles. Then again, this is understated luxury. The hands and the indexes are made with great care and perfectly polished (using the same design as the classical Tonda 1950).
Overall, this Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 Tourbillon is the definition of restrained luxury, a watch made for the old money and not featured with an once of show-off. It cleverly mixes a complicated movement (yes, it isn’t the slimmest tourbillon but whatever), with a superb execution in a watch that is discreet for the non-aficionado but that reveals more when looked closely: a textured dial made of a nice stone (jade), a slim profile that requires a complicated movement and a classical design that however stands out of the crowd. As the 3-hand edition, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950 Tourbillon is one of the best example of complicated elegance.
Price: 123,800 Euros (for the 4 editions).
Arnold and Son HM Perpetual Moon
Arnold & Son claims to have extremely precise moon phases, with only one day’s deviation every 122 years (that will be corrected by a single push on the corrector placed on the caseband). That’s great. But what if you can’t really adjust this indicator properly? The thing is that the moon on the dial has no track, no point of reference to make a precise adjustment. The solution is actually located on the movement side, where a second moon phases indicator is located, this time with a precise scale and representations of the cycle of the moon. The rest of the movement isn’t forgettable either, as the Calibre A&S1512 of the Arnold and Son HM Perpetual Moon features a double barrel for 90 hours of power reserve. As usual with this manufacture, finishing is very pleasant: manually chamfered bridges with polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes, blued screws with polished and chamfered edges.
The Arnold and Son HM Perpetual Moon in stainless steel with a guilloche blue dial has a diameter of 42mm and will be delivered on a black alligator strap. Price has to be confirmed but expect around 15,000 Swiss Francs.
Rolex Cellini Dual Time, Everose Gold Ref. 50525
The new Rolex Cellini is a success for a simple reason: it’s the vision of a dress watch by Rolex that collectors were expecting. It has the DNA of the brand but executed with more subtlety, more discretion and a more luxurious feel. The link with the rest of the collection can’t be denied and the Rolex DNA is clearly recognizable. However, it also has some interesting details that makes this watch a changer: a slim fluted bezel, a domed caseback, a slimmer case and this superb pattern on the dial. Overall, we could even find a bit of vintage feel here (something that is not usual for Rolex).
In terms of price-positioning, Rolex also strikes hard, with a retail price of 16,950 Euros for this Rolex Cellini Dual Time Ref. 50525. Don’t forget that it’s a solid gold watch, with a quite complicated and well finished dial and with a movement that displays more that just the time – competition in the high-end dress watch category usually starts around 20,000 Euros, a Day-Date 36mm in Everose gold on leather is priced at 20,500 Euros, while the Cellini Time (the simple 3-hand edition) is priced at 13,250 Euros. It seems that Rolex found the magical formula with this new Cellini collection.
Montblanc TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph LE100
The Montblanc TimeWalker ExoTourbillon Minute Chronograph LE100 is another impressive piece from Montblanc, that demonstrate how productive and interestingly positioned in terms of price the manufacture is. Then again, you won’t find such a level of complication under 100,000 Euros, except at Montblanc. The official retail price will be revealed during the 2016 edition of the SIHH, but expect it to be under 40,000 Euros.
Montblanc Heritage Chronometrie Date by Hand
The thickness just below 10mm (at 9.85mm), together with the curved horns, allows a nice comfort on the wrist. This watch is powered by the calibre MB 24.23 (based on a Sellita SW200, then modified by Montblanc), a self-winding movement that boasts 38 hours of power reserve and that is visible through the sapphire crystal. It is nicely finished with an engraved rotor and circular graining on the bridges. As usual, this movement is certified by the Montblanc Laboratory Test 500 (a 500 hours control that will provide a reliable and accurate movement).
The Montblanc Heritage Chronometrie Date by Hand will be officially revealed at the SIHH 2016, together with the rest of the Montblanc novelties. It will be priced at 2,790 Euros.
Ralph Lauren Slim Classique 38mm
It is a supremely elegant, Art Deco inspired watch, of that there is no doubt. My only critique would be the guilloche work on the dial (despite being incredibly impressive) can make the watch feel slightly feminine on the wrist. Make no mistake about it, this is very much a dress watch. At 5.10mm thin it fits beautifully under a cuff but doesn’t pair well with a t-shirt. In that respect, it is limited to more formal environments in mind. This will never be your first dress watch. However, if you are in the market for a second or this dress watch from a less obvious source, this Ralph Lauren Slim Classique has to be a contender. Price: 12,550 Euros.
Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition II
The main novelty of this Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition II comes from an extra-complication. Of course, it displays the hours, minutes and seconds on the central axis, as well as a date in a window at 6 but Oris adds the indication of the day. It is elegantly located on a inner chapter-ring in the middle of the dial. This display is powered by the Oris Cal. 735, based on Sellita SW 220-1 (with the extra day-date function), an automatic movement that ticks at 28,800vph and boasts 38 hours of power reserve.
It will be available with a stainless steel bracelet or with a black rubber strap with Oris-developed safety anchor and quick adjustment sliding-sledge folding clasp. This watch will help protect and preserve the Great Barrier Reef, the world’s largest reef system. Oris will make a donation to the charity’s vital work, funded by sales of the Oris Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition II. Price: 2,100 Swiss Francs (just below 2,000 Euros)
FP Journe Chronometre Bleu
Overall, there’s so much to say about this apparently simple watch, both visually and technically. It is a demonstration of what François-Paul Journe has in mind and a superb execution of the concept of high-end, independent watchmaking. The best to notice is that this watch is rather well priced, at around 20,000 Euros (including EU taxes).